No it is not crowded, at least when I was there, although that was some time ago. They have huts along the way and most have wood fired saunas (it is sweden after all). They also helicopter in food drops to every 2nd or 3rd hut and have an honesty system for these small food shops there. So you don't have to carry so much food. You would love it I am sure. It is 24 hour daylight so you can hike whenever you want to which helps to minimize jetlag. There is one section where you need to row a boat over a lake. It is logistically a long way north of Stockholm so it takes a couple of days on the train to get up there.