A fortnight in the mighty Himalayas on a bicycle! Part VII
Many moons ago, I knew nothing about cycling. For that matter even now I just about balance my bike and life! This story is about how I got into serious cycling after giving it up in my school days.
Previous Episode Recap:
But it did remind me that the bicycle is the most desirable manner in which one can see the world. The cycle moves so painfully slow, that you are forced to sit up and admire the scenery. In an automobile of any sort, you are going past so fast, that you do not see the many majestic scenes. All that you see is one big blur!
Day 12
After a day of rest at Losar it was time to climb the massive Kunzum La at 4551 metres above mean sea level. La means pass in the local language. So that's Kunzum Pass in English.
Before doing that, I helped my friend load his cycle onto a bus as he headed for Manali and then home. He was running cheap wheels and paid the price for it. Saving money can be expensive!
The road from Losar climbs straight up to Kunzum for 19 km. It is a steep climb on loose rock and rubble, which challenges the cyclist both mentally and physically. Often we humans make the mistake of assuming it is man vs nature. Nature is beastly and out to get us, and we must conquer it. After riding for a few days in the mountains, I realised there wasn't any 'versus'! I embraced nature and whatever it threw at me, good and bad. Life gets significantly easier once you accept the mountains.
After this 'book of revelations', the most difficult climb in the trip wasn't all that big a deal. Yes, it was difficult. No, it didn't kill me. This lesson from the saddle was one which I imbibed for life. Acceptance!
As I climbed Kunzum, the rugged terrain felt like home. Cars and bikes which passed me, slowed down to cheer me on and check if I was fine. At such times one once again starts believing in humanity and the general good of the human race! A far cry from all the depressing news one sees, reads and hears in the media.
At the top of the pass, there is a small temple, which one must circle in a clockwise fashion. The locals believe it brings good luck to the traveller and keeps them safe from all harm and evil.
I didn't circle the temple!
After clicking a few pictures at the top I started the descent. A Royal Enfield overtook me.
Now being a motorcyclist I wasn't used to Enfields overtaking me! So I gave chase, down the rocky slope with my luggage tied. Heart pumping the hot blood in my veins, adrenaline rushing, the red mist covering my eyes.
As I tried to close the gap to the motorcycle, I hit a big rock which was sitting in the shade like a ninja assassin. Up in the air, the bike and I went. Separately!
That was the second out of body moment in my life. I could see my body and the bike airborne, we were going over the cliff. With all the willpower within me, I pushed my bike away and myself towards the road. Somehow I landed on my feet and stumbled ahead towards the edge as my bike was going over. I grabbed the handlebar and pulled with all my might and within a split second, bike and I were back safe on terra firma. Unfortunately, I was so charged up that I jumped back onto my bike and again gave chase to the motorcycle. Within 100 metres I crashed for the second time. Only then did the stupidity of my actions permeate through my thick skull!
Miraculously, my bike and I were unhurt. Only my water bottles got punctured. Then the slow descent started, it wasn't just the altitude which was reducing, but my ego as well!
I descended to the one shop village of Batal, where I got water. I left my luggage as well with the shopkeeper. We didn't know each other, yet he trusted me and I him!
I then climbed to Chandra Tal, literally translated it means 'moon lake'. The lake is fed by the chandra glacier. It is a pristine mountain lake with zero habitation. Since I reached there late afternoon, the place was empty. It was a feeling which is indescribable, being all alone in the lap of nature. The high point of the trip.
The lake is freezing cold and since I am afraid of water (bordering on a phobia), I stripped down and went skinny dipping, in the shallow end. I think my heart stopped beating for a moment! I was in the water for not more than 30 seconds, yet I got out shaking like a leaf in a storm. It was a day of being stupid apparently!
Was I being stupid because I didn't circle the temple, or was not circling the temple being stupid!
After a lovely couple of hours spent at Chandra Tal, I headed back to Batal as the sun was disappearing behind the peaks. I didn't have a light and wasn't looking forward to riding in the dark.
I reached the shop in Batal just as the light in the sky was dwindling and went to grab a bowl of piping hot noodles. I was joined by three Australian tourists. Two girls and a guy. I made an unsuccessful attempt at flirting with the girl who looked single!
Soon we were joined by Ivan. He had also been to the lake, but was making slower progress than me, because he had 35 kg of luggage compared to my 12!
The Aussies ordered chicken, while Ivan and I stuck to veg food for dinner. The wonders from downunder wondered where the chicken came in that remote location. I causally shrugged my shoulders and pointed at the fat rats in the shop. I was of course joking, but the Australians were retching within moments!
We were literally given animal sheds to sleep in. A hard rock with a thick mat served the purpose of a bed and mattress and a thick quilt offered warmth. Any sense of hygiene went for a toss, as all of us made our way to our respective sheds for the night! If anyone asked me, why the long face, well it was because I was staying in a horse barn!
Seeing off the young motorcyclists
Kunzum La at 4951 metres
I am excellent at chopping heads in photos. Can make a career of it
My limited photography skills were insufficient tto capture the majesty of the Chandra Tal lake. I hope the quantity will make up for the quality!
The spot where I jumped in the pool!
Riding back to Batal without luggage
Himalayan Yaks. I am not sure enter they were more scared of me or vice versa!
If you like Bike Travel tales:
Cycling in the mighty Himalayas
Cycling in the mighty Himalayas Part II
Cycling in the mighty Himalayas Part III
You can read my previous travel tales from Goa below:
You can read my experience of bicycle racing below:
Road race in Delhi: The ATH KMP 100
Great stuff monkeyman. I'm lovin your trip. The bit where you pointed at the rat was class :)
Hahaha. Thank you :)
original and classy post twowheeledmonkey. as a photographer you can use #photocircle #photofeed #photography #yourluckyphotos tags. hope this will help you.
Thanks man :)
I really don't consider myself a photographer, but you are right i should give it a try. Thanks!
Wow! What an incredible adventure. Thank you for sharing your amazing journey and beautiful pics with us. I greatly admire you.
Thanks for stopping by :)
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Man, what a stunning environment. I've got to go there on my next trip to India.
If you do get a chance, you must. There is nothing in this world like the Himalayas. At least that is what seasoned mountaineers believe!
I'm hoping to travel to India for photography early next year. I guess the hill stations up there will be closed to travel in the winter, but I'm planning to be in India for 6 months or so, so I'll look to get there in the warmer months.
If you want to shoot snow clad mountains, you can fly to Leh in the winter and move around a bit from there. It isn't accessible by road in winter.
If you want to go to the lower hills, you can visit anytime of the year. Though it is better to avoid the monsoons.
If you want to travel by road in the mountains then the late June to September months are best. The hills are best after September, once the rains recede!
Thanks for the handy info, mate!