Touching Milan's most characterful architectural soul
There have been many years do not like Milan. Milan is not as bright as Rome, Venice, Florence, ancient buildings, there is no Siena, Verona, Vicenza, Mantua and other medium-sized planned ancient quiet city, it is noisy and busy, the lack of typical Italian city that Lazy human touch But over time, more and more that Milan has a charm together, it opened, forward, full of life, cherish the pre-history but not stick to the rules. It inherits the infinite concept of tradition since Leonardo da Vinci, will be innovative and beautiful combination of past history into a unique elegance.
Just a few steps from Milan's Cathedral, the Palace of Bellars (PALAZZO BELTRADE) is the setting of Milan's masonry. Originally there is a two-story classical building, Milan architect PIERO PORTALUPPI was born in 1935 to 1938 at the request of RAS company in this planning to create a set of shops, offices, apartments as one building. The bright windows of the building, the concise façade made up of the straight lines, were very avant-garde at the time. Together, the plan also takes into account the spatial harmony with the neighboring San Sebastian Sanctuary, with the floor on the lower side of the main street being lower, so that people can see the Temple from the Piazza del Duomo Dome. In 1943, the building was partially bombed. PORTALUPPI was partly covered in the process of repairing the building, giving the building's facade facing the church a stepped space modification.
It is also a matter of decades that time has passed. In the year before Expo Milano 2015, a new round of renovation was completed. The renovated building has the most modern in-house equipment and state-of-the-art energy efficiency standards, and the atrium spaces are elaborately planted with plants from top to bottom, known as the "vertical forest in the heart of Milan."
Had never thought of, this is located in the most prime locations in Milan with the legendary color of high-level apartment will be with me such ordinary people what connection. Until you know HALLIS. HALLDIS is a 30-year-old Italian short-term rental company founded by Leonardo Ferragamo, yes, the famous luxury brand Ferragamo family. With more than 1,500 high-quality condominiums in Europe (mainly Italy), the company is the preferred choice for many corporate executives and celebrities on holiday travel. And HALLDIS Bellet Ladies have an apartment, with a bit curious, I chose to play in Milan to live there, pretend to be Milan two days, feeling the greatest block in Milan, the day.
The main entrance of the building is very characteristic. Thick metal door, from top to bottom with a large round hole for the decoration, 80 years ago, rumors of planning is such that it is indeed modern enough.
Beautiful atrium, with the planning of the door to take care of.
Public space building materials are very particular, but also decorated a lot of bright colors full of modern oil paintings, it is both style and temperature.
Stayed the first night stay busy with the long time no see out of the children went out to go, nor carefully looked at the room. Only feel bright, quite planning. The details are very thoughtful, clearly the whole wall is a large wardrobe, there are special vertical coat hangers, and even my new headphones have been properly placed settled.
Wake up to open the window cloth, along with the morning sun threw himself into the eyes of the rich and affirmative changes plants, immediately feel refreshed ah!
The apartment has a long balcony that connects with all three rooms. Open the glass door and go to the balcony, the most characteristic atrium space of Belterdegger Palace at a glance.
In this heart of the city, with such a quiet and full of green space, it is a luxury.
Skip layers of plants, you can also see the San Sebastian temple roof tower. Classic and modern seamless connection here.
The apartment has a fully equipped kitchen. In the face of the morning green enjoy breakfast, want to feel bad mood is a bit difficult.
Milan Cathedral too close, resulting in I can not help but look down at the first look back to eat breakfast. Have been to dozens of Milan Cathedral hundreds of times, for the first time have the opportunity to see the influx of tourists into the empty square, the cathedral, such as blooming marble forest, quiet, beautiful and lightweight.
Is the first time I saw such an empty Emanuele II promenade, classical music like the gorgeous feeling. Promenade stuff imported this year to put on the anti-terrorism cement blocking pile, the United States has obsessive-compulsive like the Italians to these rough cement pile coated with gold powder, painted on the image, in order to harmony with the ancient architecture with. Suddenly a little touched, for this kind of vigilance is not serious, no matter what kind of situation never throw away the emotions sought for the good day.
The biggest advantage of staying at Bertrade Palace is that you can feel the colorfulness of the heart of Milan. Downstairs is Turin Street, one of the most important commercial streets in Milan. Classic tram traverses elegantly from the old Main Street, across the street, from designer boutiques to boutiques, from cafes to bookstores, to event food vendors, making Milan the richest.
This lot is still the most artistic Milan. The PALAZZO REALE Palace, which is on the promenade of Emmanuele II, often holds a variety of high-standard art shows; while its neighbors MUSEO DE NOVECENTO host the largest collection of Italian twentieth-century art Goods, from its huge floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Cathedral Square is very colorful, together with the Reticulo here is like the concave shape of the local. But most of my favorites are the PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA, on the opposite side of the Belterde Palace, which is a collection of works of art originally preserved by the Archbishop of Milan. Leonardo da Vinci, and works by Titian and Botticelli, and Caravaggio's still-life fruit basket with epoch-making implications in the history of Western painting. Not only is the gallery rich in arboriculture, the architecture itself is impressive, the psychedelic stained-glass windows, gorgeous frescoes, elaborate sculptures and elegant cloisters are all inspiring.
La Scala is a neighboring landmark next to Milan's cathedral and promenade. Although its appearance is not very beautiful, but it is the temple of the hearts of opera lovers around the world. After all, the opera originated in Italy Well.
From Bertrand Palace go out left after a few steps, you can see the way to stop the Sforza Castle, castle opposite is the Sempione Park, the former is Milan Grand Dukes Forsza family's home, and now There are several museums, with the exception of a scenic, leisure park with Italy's first planning museum, which is also a great place to experience Milan's creativity.
Beautiful outside have to have food, ability to form a perfect day. There are so many options available for this lot. Recommended a characteristic: Pavarotti restaurant, located in the interior of the Emanuele II promenade, with many of the relics, photographs, artwork, songs of the song king home Emilia Romagna original Italy is the food town, the characteristics of food is very good.
If you drink coffee, go to BIFFI, even though all the coffee in Italy is delicious. This café, opened in 1867, is Milan's earliest café with a light bulb, where you not only drink coffee, it's still the story of the city.
Not far from the promenade east exit SPONTINI is a chain of pizza restaurants in Milan, cheap taste outlets are open to go to Japan. My picture is not shot rice, meal time is inevitable.
The business is still the most popular SPONTINI diagonally opposite LUINI, this small shop has two doors, every day is the two long lines in the opposite direction of extension. They are selling characteristics of Puglia in southern Italy, PANZEROTTI food, very cheap, a three or four euros a bar, as for the taste Well, look at this long also ask!
To talk about Milan's conceptual energy, vertical forest sister building completed three years ago can be said to be a typical representative. The two towers, surrounded by more than 700 trees, 5,000 shrubs and more than 10,000 herbs from top to bottom, use recycled water to irrigate flowers and plants and use wind and solar energy to add self-sufficiency. When it was completed, the vertical forest was once voted the world's most imaginative building that year.
HALLDIS also has three apartments in the vertical forest. Because the unit size is too large (the minimum set can accommodate six people), the rental period is too long (at least two weeks rent), but my friend at HALLDIS took me to watch it. Look out in the sunny days to see distant snow-capped mountains and many roofs near the top, there are still a variety of leaves swaying in your window, that feeling quite good.
经有很多年不喜欢米兰。 米兰没有罗马、威尼斯、佛罗伦萨那么多辉煌的古建筑，也没有锡耶纳、维罗纳、维琴察、曼托瓦等中等规模的古城的精巧宁静，它喧闹忙碌，缺少典型意大利城市那种慵懒的人情味。但时间长了，越来越觉得米兰有一种独特的魅力， 它开放、进取、充满活力， 珍惜历史却不固步自封。它传承着自达芬奇以来创意无限的传统，将创新与历史巧妙融合成独具一格的优雅。
距离米兰大教堂几步之遥的贝尔特拉德宫（PALAZZO BELTRADE）正是米兰性格的在砖石间的凝固。 这里原本有座两层的古典小楼， 米兰出生的建筑师PIERO PORTALUPPI在1935至1938年间应RAS公司的邀请在此设计建造了一座集商店、写字楼、公寓为一体大楼。大楼采用明亮的大窗户、直线组合成的简洁的外立面， 在当时可以说是非常前卫的。同时，设计也考虑了与比邻的圣塞巴斯蒂安圣殿在空间感上的和谐， 靠近主街的一边的楼层要低依一些，这样人们从大教堂广场也能看到圣殿的圆顶。 1943年大楼局部遭到了炸弹的破花， PORTALUPPI在维修大楼过程中又加盖了一部分，让大楼面向教堂的一方呈现出阶梯状的空间变化。
又是几十年时光流转，2015年米兰世博会前贝尔特拉德宫又完成了新的一轮改造。改造后的大楼有着最现代的内部设施和先进的节能标准， 而且中庭空间由上至下精心布局了各种植物，被称为“米兰市中心的垂直森林”。
原本没想过，这座位于米兰最黄金地段的带有传奇色彩的高级公寓会跟我这样的平头百姓有啥关系。直到知道了HALLIS。 HALLDIS是一家有着三十年历史的意大利短租房公司，其创始人是莱昂纳多.菲拉格慕， 没错，就是那个大名鼎鼎的奢侈品牌菲拉格慕家族的人。该公司在欧洲（主要是意大利）拥有1500多套富有特色的高品质公寓，是很多企业高管和明星们出差度假时偏爱的下榻选择。而HALLDIS在贝尔特拉德宫里有一套公寓， 带着几分好奇，我决定去米兰玩就住那了， 假装两天米兰人，感受米兰最高大上的街区生活。
大楼的大门很有特色。 厚厚的金属门，从上到下以整齐的大圆孔为装饰，据说八十年前的设计就是这样的， 的确够现代。
漂亮的中庭， 与大门的设计相呼应。
公共空间的建材都很讲究，而且装饰了不少色彩明快饱满的现代油画，显得既有格调又有温度。
头一晚入住的时候忙着跟好久不见的小朋友出去晃荡去了，也没仔细打量房间。只觉得宽敞明亮， 挺有设计感的。细节也挺周到，明明整面墙都是大衣柜了，还有专门放外套的立式衣架，连我的新耳机都得到了妥贴的安置。
一梦醒来拉开窗帘，随着清晨的阳光一起扑入眼帘的是满眼丰富而富有变化的绿植，立马觉得神清气爽啊！
公寓有一个长长的阳台，与三个房间都相通。 推开玻璃门走到阳台上， 贝尔特拉德宫最具特色的中庭空间一览无遗。
在这座繁华都市的心脏地带，拥有这样一个幽静而充满绿意的空间，实在是一种奢侈。
越过层层绿植， 还可以看到圣塞巴斯蒂安圣殿的屋顶塔楼。 古典与现代在这里无缝衔接。
公寓有设施完备的厨房。 面对着晨光中的绿意享用早餐，想心情不好都有点难。
米兰大教堂太近， 以至于我忍不住先下楼看它一眼再回来吃早饭。去过几十近百次米兰大教堂了， 第一次有机会看到游客潮涌入之前空空荡荡的广场， 大教堂如繁花盛开的大理石森林， 静谧、华美而又轻盈。
也是第一次看到这样空荡荡的埃马努埃莱二世长廊， 古典乐般华美的感觉。长廊东西入口有今年才摆上去的反恐用的水泥隔离桩，对美有着强迫症般追求的意大利人给这些粗笨的水泥桩涂上了金粉，画上了图案， 以求与古建筑和谐。忽然有一点点感动，为这种警惕却不慌张，无论何种形势下决不放弃对美好生活追求的态度。
下榻贝尔特拉德宫最大的好处，是你能够真切感受到米兰心脏地带的多姿多彩。楼下就是都灵大街， 米兰最重要的商业街之一。有古典气息的电车优雅地从古老的大街中间穿过， 街道两边，从名牌大店到精品小店，从咖啡馆饭店到书店，乃至流动食品摊贩， 构成最繁华最生活的米兰。
这个地段，还是最艺术的米兰。正对埃马努埃莱二世长廊的米兰王宫（PALAZZO REALE）经常举办各种高规格的艺术展；而它隔壁的二十世纪博物馆（MUSEO DE NOVECENTO）藏有最多的意大利二十世纪艺术品， 从它楼上的巨大的落地窗俯瞰大教堂广场非常壮观，同时这里也是网红们喜欢凹造型的地方。 但是我最最推荐的，却是就在贝尔特拉德宫背后的盎博罗削画廊（PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA），里面陈列的是从前米兰大主教收藏的艺术品，一言不合就给你看一屋子的达芬奇，还有提香和波提切利的作品，而且，卡拉瓦乔那张在西方绘画史上具有划时代意义的果篮静物也在里面。盎博罗削画廊不仅藏品丰富，建筑本身也很有看头，迷幻的彩绘玻璃窗，绚烂的壁画，精致的雕塑，优雅的回廊，都令人着迷。
斯卡拉歌剧院是附近仅次于米兰大教堂和长廊的地标性建筑了。虽然它的外观并不算十分华丽，却是全世界歌剧爱好者心中的圣殿。毕竟，歌剧起源于意大利嘛。
从贝尔特拉德宫出门左拐没几步，就可以看到路尽头的斯福尔扎城堡（CASTELLO SFORZESCO）， 城堡背后就是森皮奥内公园(PARCO SEMPIONE), 前者过去是米兰大公斯福尔扎家族的居所，现在分成好几个博物馆， 后者除了是一个风景优美的休闲公园之外，里面还有意大利第一家设计博物馆（LA TRIENNALE DI MILANO）， 那也是一个感受米兰的创造力的好地方。
美景之外还得有美食，才能构成完美的日子。 这个地段可以提供的选择太多了。推荐一家有特色的：帕瓦罗蒂餐厅，位于埃马努埃莱二世长廊内部，陈列有许多与歌王有关的文物、照片、艺术品，歌王老家艾米利亚罗马涅大区本来就是意大利的美食之乡，特色菜很不错。
喝咖啡的话，还是去BIFFI吧，虽然意大利哪家的咖啡都好喝。 这家1867年开业的咖啡馆是米兰最早使用电灯的咖啡馆， 在那里你喝的不仅是咖啡，还是这座城市的故事。
长廊东侧出口不远处的SPONTINI是米兰的一家连锁披萨店，价廉物美味道分店都开到日本去了。我这张图还不是饭点拍的，吃饭时间排队是难免的。
生意最火爆的还是SPONTINI斜对面的LUINI， 这家小小的店铺有两个门， 天天都是两条长龙向着相反的方向延伸。他们卖的是意大利南部普利亚大区的特色食品PANZEROTTI，很便宜的，三四个欧元一个吧，至于味道嘛， 看这长龙还用问吗！
要说起米兰的创意精神，三年前落成的垂直森林姐妹楼可以说是典型代表。这两座大楼从上到下被700多棵乔木、5000株灌木以及一万多棵草本植物包围，利用回收水来浇灌花木，利用风能和太阳能来增加能源自给。 落成时，垂直森林就曾被评为当年全世界最有创意的建筑。
HALLDIS在垂直森林里也有三套公寓。因为户型太大（最小一套能住六个人），租期太长（至少租两周）， 但在HALLDIS工作的朋友带我去参观了一下。在晴天望出去能看到远处雪山和近处无数屋顶的高层上，仍有各种树叶在你窗外摇曳，那种感觉挺美妙的。