LOL @ wannabes in Byron, hahaa... yes it's very commercial and yuppie now. If you want hippies you want to get yourself out to Nimbin! You'll get the "full" experience there!! You'd need to travel through some beautiful country to get there too! Mullumbimby is another well known town, nothing to really see or do there though and they're quite tame compared to Nimbin! : D

We're heading down to Grafton in 2 weeks time, but we're heading out to Dalmorton : ) We are going to stay at Ballina though. I'm surprised you didn't like Forster, that's a beautiful area to explore, there some stunning coastal walks around there!!

How far up are you coming? I also love South West Rocks, it's a tiny little coastal town surrounded by country area. Emerald beach is also another fav, also another nice small again coastal town. Nice beach walks there too!