Ocean 1 Surfer 0
Hey Fam Bam 🙂
It’s been a couple days since my last post, and you will know why in a second.
All I want to say is I appreciate all my followers, and I am grateful for the value they also bring to others.
So the last few days I have not felt as if I wanted to make a post.
Due to the fact my FACE got abused by my surfboard.
For all of you who don’t know I am from Australia and love to surf, however…..the ocean is unforgiving.
The ocean is especially unforgiving when you place man and it’s toys into the equation.
I got caught in the white wash after falling off a wave, it felt like my board was dragged in front of me and as I came
to breathe a breath of fresh air BAMM!!! THE BOARD SMACKS DOWN on my face and i instantly think “FUCK, NOT TODAY!”
So I went to the lifeguard and checked out how bad it was, lifeguard said it’s fine just a bit swollen… was not bleeding a whole lot at all.
Asked if I could go back surfing as I showed no signs of dizziness and my nose felt like it was not broken. So got a few more waves with my brother and dad and it was great fun!! absolutely amazing waves down in ocean grove main beach.
Loved spending time with my dad and brother, as it’s a time when I actually feel connected with them and I am happy surfing brings you closer with friends and family as a shared experience.
Hope you enjoy the photo's 🙂
Stay Safe.