A Journey Through India: one photo every day. #12

#JhilmilGufa #Khargosa #Uttarakhand #India

Having traveled through ten cities already, I feel I'm getting the hang of things. It's been a journey like no other I had never taken, my comfort zone safely locked away in my apartment back in Serbia.

Now - a backpack on my back, under my arm an Indian girl I had met along my travels, in my pocket some rupees and the keys to our room back in Rishikesh, and in front of us - the majestic vastness of the Himalayas.

A friend from Delhi said: "Go to Jhilmil Gufa! It's a cave in the mountains where gurus live. Sit with them, eat with them, drink chai with them. It's an experience of a lifetime."

So on our way we were, following his directions scribbled on a crumpled piece of paper. "Park your scooter at Neelkanth Temple, follow the mountain trail and turn right at the sign". Except there are many trails and no signs. The locals aren't too helpful either.

After a full day of mountain trekking, we find ourselves lost in the jungle at 6pm.

We could go on, but it's about to get dark. We could go back, but it's about to get dark.

I press for going on. After all, that's what brought me to India. Smart move - after another ten minutes, there it is all of a sudden - the cave and the gurus, about to start their prayer.

We sit in for the ritual, eat with them afterwards, spend the night there, drink chai, the whole works - only, something doesn't feel right. These aren't the gurus I wanted to meet.

None speak English. They're closed minded and traditional, not transcendental. They're welcoming, but judge my western demeanor and Sukrita's insolence to leave her parents and her home, to travel around with a white boy. They did their best to keep us apart while we were under their roof.

Bereft of spiritual fulfillment, we leave with the first light.

Along our way, a Man appears. He left his ashram and is headed for the Temple. Our eyes meet. We exchange words, warm and gentle ones.

He's fluent in English and in human. Utter enlightenment in his eyes and no judgement in his soul. He is Ganesh baba, the guru I was looking for. He had found me instead. We sit talking for an hour, drinking chai by chai. It never tasted as good. We discuss Buddha stories, Hinduist teachings, spirituality, frustrations, sex, politics, facebook... Life. He knows all about it. His presence is sacred to me.

I have seen the sun set and rise in the Himalayas and my guide found me. I part with him with a full heart, vowing to come back and see him again.