Baltit Fort Karimabad: May 30th (part I)

We are still in Karimabad, Hunza, and today we have to explore the famous Baltit Fort which is believed to be over 700 years old. Actually, there are two famous forts here, but we’re a bit pressed for time. We have to leave for Naltar in the afternoon, so we’ll only be visiting Baltit Fort and sadly skip Altit Fort. To get here, we had to pass through the bazaar in Karimabad, and this bazaar has become our favorite spot… It has a unique vibe.

We got our tickets here, which was a really unique idea... Tickets in the form of postcards—fantastic!

So, we started the uphill climb. You have to go on foot here, as cars can't reach the top... I had no idea we'd have to climb so high. I was out of breath. But of course I kept going for I would not miss it for the breathlessness!

Along the way, we came across many shops, but the gemstone stores ones caught the attention of my eldest daughter and me. They had a special appeal that we felt deeply ;)) Though I exercised some patience, my other two kids and I kept walking, but my eldest daughter had her father stop... and of course, she ended up buying a necklace and bracelet made of stones from one of the shops. I did some shopping too, but on our way back from the fort... I'll tell you more about that later.

Ufff, how much more do we have to walk... In the middle of the journey, I handed my tote bag, along with my phone, to my husband. From here on, the rest of the pictures you'll see will be from the fort :))

Yes, we—meaning me and the two kids—finally reached the fort. But there was still no sign of the other two. As I mentioned, they were busy shopping, and my camera was with them. The upside of this was that I was able to calmly explore the surroundings... I asked a few questions to the guard on duty there and then took in the breathtaking view of the valley from above.

Okay, I finally got my camera.

And here’s my picture of Baltit Fort for you— isn't it amazing? We had to wait a little, and then we got a guide who gave us a complete tour of the fort.

_{The fort is positioned on an artificially flattened spur below the Ulter Glacier. It has a strategic location, offering a commanding view of the Hunza Valley and its tributaries.}

And that's the valley from this floor of fort. This place offers a panoramic view of Hunza Valley. O yes it's a multistorey fort!

For those who are not following my travelogues, a little background:

Baltit Fort is located in Karimabad, the former capital of Hunza, now the Tehsil Headquarter of District Gilgit. It can be accessed via the Karakoram Highway from Gilgit, the capital of Northern Areas, Pakistan.

Let's give you a complete tour now...

Baltit Fort is rectangular in plan, has three floors, and stands on a high stone plinth. It is a wood-and-stone structure with mud plaster. It is a three story building, with granaries and some stores in the basement on a glacier moraine hill with man-made narrow terraces for the stability of its ancient foundations. sr

The ground floor consists mainly of storage chambers. The first floor is centered around an open hall. We are currently on the first floor. We followed the tour guide inside the fort, and I kept snapping pictures as we went along. Visitors walk through the main entrance via a stone staircase and a long-hung wooden door. Small doors like this were designed to keep brutal winter weather at bay and to help defend against any intruding outside forces.

_{There is a caution sign over door: "watch your head"}

And then there's an interesting trapdoor here—look at this, the (secret) way to the storage chambers below:

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The first floor of the Fort has most of the stores, the main kitchen, guard rooms, a dungeon and a winter guest room.

They are connected to each other by elaborate labyrinths.

A little back in time: Assumed Dungeon

The Zindan in Baltit Fort refers to a prison or dungeon that was used during the fort's active days. Baltit Fort, a 700-year-old structure, served as the seat of power for the rulers of Hunza. Like many forts of its time, it had a designated area for detaining prisoners or captives—this was the Zindan.

As I mentioned earlier (thanks to our guide), we reached the first floor via a staircase. This floor, which was used during the winter months, includes an audience hall, guest room, dining hall, kitchen, and servants' quarters.

I have tried to capture most of the features on this floor.

Baltit Fort main structure is a pegged timber frame because it can handle the seismic activity in the region better than a more rigid material. _sr

The structure's wooden cribbage work (known locally as Kator), is the real reason of its stability over so many centuries, despite various natural hazards.

Now that you’ve had a good look at the exterior and interior of the fort, let me tell you a bit about its history. This is also part of the travelogue.

The Mir, or ruler of Hunza, lived in the fort until 1945. Conservation work in the 1990s revealed that the core structure, a single defensive timber and stone tower, was built in the 8th century AD. Over time, additional towers were added, connected by a single-story construction with small rooms and sub-surface storage chambers. The structure was expanded with the addition of a second and third floor. The fort’s stone walls, located in an area prone to seismic activity, have a traditional internal timber framework for stability. sr

The tour of the Fort isn’t over yet! Stay tuned for the next chapter and the top storey—there are still so many fascinating things to explore! Because another staircase leads to the third floor containing the summer dining room, audience chamber, bedroom, and reception hall. You would not want to miss that.

To be continued...