Franks Surfing Experience: California Love


It all started as a teenager from the Midwest who was taken again through another journey from where he was born.

"Ride The Wave"

Not on water at the beginning but through the air and on land before anchoring down on the West Coast. After my parents divorced, Mom stayed behind while my Dad had flown my brother and I to Southern California to finish out our high school. During high school as a teenager their were many clubs to join. (chess club, photography club, library club, writing club, bingo club, etc) No "Surf Club" that I can recall at my school in the 90's, at least LEGIT ones. However the group of brothers and sisters that took me along their "Surf Trip" and "A Wild Wave" on the weekends and a few weekdays during school hours gave me a new meaning of life...

"Let the Sea Set You Free"

Now I am not saying everyone should ditch school or play hooky...This is simply what cards were dealt to me at the time and especially not being born in this country. If you think about it, I would probably be ditching school where I was born if I had not of made it to America, so it really wouldn't matter where I "Ride The Wave", Right?

"California Surfers"

That was my new club that I had embraced while I was heavily into sk8boarding during that same time which also allowed me to learn how to snowboard as well. Surfing in the morning, sk8boarding during the day, and ended up in Big Bear Mountain California for a evening snowboarding session which we ended up doing all three in that same very day!!! Can't say I can do that again at this point in my life... Those were the days I shall never forget and want documented for my friends and family to read one day. They know who they are.

Many summers passed as I repeatedly go up and down the coast from where it all started. Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) starting from one of the easiest beaches to learn, Seal Beach. After a few months we worked our way up towards Bolsa Chica and Goldenwest. Stopping at Huntington Beach where the U.S. Open of Surfing Competition happens every Summer is where I had felt like I was HOT STUFF! Soo many people around enjoying the sun, sand, and surf. Just beautiful everywhere you looked, I has was hooked! Eventually needed more and more adrenaline over the years which got me to Newport Beach where I had my first failed attempt to try and surf "The Wedge". I was not HOT STUFF anymore, more like a scared chicken as I barely walked away from 5 foot shore breakers. Sand rapidly rising up with the wave beneath your feet is not a pretty sight let alone landing in water, or more like hitting a sand papered concrete! I best move on down the coast passing by a few surf breaks along the way.

Next up was Laguna Beach which is an upper class city with limited surfing spots. Mostly shops, restaurants, and art displays is what I remembered. Can't recall surfing Doheny Beach either, but do remember very well Old Man's Beach, San Onofre! Please allow me to paint a picture. Try to imagine running on a treadmill for almost 2 minutes straight as fast as you can... Now picture me catching an A-Frame shaped wave going Left that never curls over, but with an angled 45 degree ramp that moves in slow motion about 4-5 feet high from top to bottom. Going backside as fast as I can carving and pumping down that wave to catch enough speed to be able to carve and pump back up the wave. Doing all this non stop for at least more than 10 times in one sitting all the way from one side of the beach to the other was not easy, let me tell you. Back and Forth! Back and Forth! Back and Forth! Man, was my abs and calves so so sore after that ride! I felt dead! This was like heaven, never saw that wave or experienced that feeling ever again. Once in a life time spiritual awakening, like my very last breathe! I tell this story all the time, can't ever forget it. My smile must of lasted for days...

"Wave Patrol"

As I was searching for more waves up and down PCH heading out each and every early morning during the summer and even camped out at times, I would pass all these beaches trying to spot the best waves of the day. Calling up my friends to meet me as I was the first one up giving out an actual live surf report since back then there was no "Surfline" or an App! No online live wave forecast no live camera feeds in the 1990's. You had to do your own "Wave Patrol" if you wanted the best waves of the day. I had finally made it to Surf Heaven a place called TRESTLES which is in San Clemente, CA. By far this was the most consistent surf break that had the perfect shape and wave formation that just peeled like kiwi. Mostly due to the rocks and pebbles on the shore verses sandy bottoms that are the norm. The wave has a thin top curl but a nice juicy bottom which allows both speed and slicing or cutbacks, if you can imagine the juice spraying off an orange after taking a bite! That spray is a feeling and sound that you can't ever forget. If I had a to choose my final resting place, that would be it. I found my ANCHOR where my boards and shades rest.

California Love...

To Be Continued...

(click on the tag "franks-surfing" for more)

or

Google "franks surfing experience"

Thank you for your time.

Keep STEEM N & SURF N ON,

Frank

Sort:  

FANtastic! It's great getting to read about your surfing history...

I have only visited Trestles once in my life, and it was on a flat day. I've seen photos and videos of when it was working, and they're enough to scare the stuffing out of you... :O

Just between Dana Point and Laguna Beach there's a spot that Tom Morey once showed a friend and me... I have to write a story about that sometime! :)

This was great, thanks, looking forward to the continuation! :D

😄😇😄

@creatr

Look forward to hear that surf spot you mentioned, sounds like Doheny Beach. Sorry to keep the surfing community waiting. I have plenty more... These memories are ingrained/stored in my memory bank which I am slowly releasing as I learn and improve my writing skills on Steemit. One of these days @creatr we are going to have to meet up along the coast for a Steemit Surf Meet Up! I have to say @rok-sivante has inspired me recently with his latest post and it's GOOD ONE!

Enjoy...

https://steemit.com/steemit/@rok-sivante/can-t-stop-won-t-stop-writing-addicted-again-or-riding-the-ultimate-wave

Thanks for the interaction, for the reference, and once again for your good surfing story.

Would love to meet up for a surf session one of these days! I just need to get out of the work rip-current I've been in lately. I'll let you know... ;)

Lol...

Nicely put "work rip-current".

Sounds Good! :)

Aarrrrugh... I wish it were! :O

I can get out of real rip currents easier than this one! :(

Thoroughly enjoyed reading this.

All the time I was wondering how does it feel to surf, you know.

Even I never had a "Surf Club" in school... or outside of that.

Can only imagine what it feels like to enjoy those waves!

Perhaps one day!

Until then, what you described will remain stored in my memory! :)

Thank you for sharing!

It was an unofficial "Surf Club", but I hear in today's high schools along the beaches they do now have an actual "Surf Club". Kids are sure lucky these days, let me tell you.

Here is another "franks surfing experience" that I wrote when I first started with Steemit.

Enjoy!

https://steemit.com/franks-surfing/@cassidyandfranks/franks-surfing-experience-10-foot-wave-is-deadly

Thank you! Definitely today's kids are so lucky.

There's so much to do these days. In school.

Must say, you took me through quite a journey with your writing.

Thank you for the link. Lovely read that was. Have upvoted and looking forward to witness more of your experiences! :)

Deal!

I am going to pull an all nighter and see if I can pull off another one like @rok-sivante which did 3 back to back to back!!!

Need more caffeine, don't wait up, see you around...

:D

P.S. Forget to say you are welcome. :)

Haha! You got me smiling there! :)

Pulled an all-nighter myself to write a post here. It was fun until I met the morning sun.

Take it slow, if you wish to. We are all here. :)

Cheers!

Sounds like a super fun life! I love California! Lived in highland park a few years ago and spent a lot of time in Santa Monica, Venice, and Malibu. Sadly I have not yet got around to trying surfing. Did a lot of wake boarding growing up in Ontario so maybe some of that will translate.
Someday... someday hopefully soon... and I will check out Trestles

For sure Dan...

How cool would this be getting Steemians out to California for a Meet Up on the Beach!?

We can still hit up Santa Monica, Venice, and Malibu! Can't forget about H O L L Y W O O D...

What does STEEM have to hit to make this happen!?

$10
$100
$1000

:-)))

$10 and it has to happen! $100 and I'm moving there for good! $1000 an I'm buying an island lol

Are you still living in Cali now?

I have family all around, so depending on holidays, birthdays, vacations, etc. I am lucky enough to have family friends who take good care of me where ever I might be. I plan on staying for the summer in Cali and usually head out to see my Mom during the Thanksgiving and Christmas Holidays.

I like the buying the island thing!

STEEM to $1000 please...

:p

Calendar Marked for May 2022

STEEM = $1000

Frank Approves :)

niiiice.

I grew up in my teens skateboarding and snowboarding, but can just sense a certain magic through your writing of what it must have been like in Cali - that west coast vibe, with the surf thrown in the mix... such a cool scene, environment, and space to grow up and play in...

Thanks man...

Glad you are feeling that west coast vibe, and you said it!

"with the surf thrown in the mix... such a cool scene, environment, and space to grow up and play in..."

It has been a long 3 months testing the Steemit Waters and the other SeaTEEMlife that I meet along the way. Mixing Crypto, Surfing, and Blogging is rubbing off nicely for me so far. Look forward to learning and hearing more from Steemians all around the world, such a genuine and diverse community where we can share, relate, and grow from one another. Anyways...

Thanks for stopping by @rok-sivante

Hang loose,
Frank

Great Story. I will look forward to more of the same.
Surfing has always been on my growing To Do Bucket List.
Have you read: "The Dawn Patrol" by Don Winslow.
Got me intrigued by the Surfer lifestyle.
Though, I do remember being shocked when I learned that some of the "Beach Boys" were terrified of the water.
But someday, I may just join that Party Wave Dawn Patrol.
Check out:
20 Meter Rogue Waves Are Real
http://www.bbc.com/earth/story/20170510-terrifying-20m-tall-rogue-waves-are-actually-real

Hey @franks

Thank you for reading my true life surf experience. I look forward in releasing more of them with the Steemit community. I have NOT read "The Dawn Patrol" by Don Winslow but it is on my list now that you have brought it to my attention. Thanks!

Surfers lifestyle...

I can't say I am your average looking surfer, lol.

But I can say that it is a different lifestyle that more should experience to be closer to earth/nature. Funny about the "Beach Boys" fun fact that I didn't know either.

Any day, just hang out the beach or a surf contest, the vibe is friendly and if you up to it, give the surfboard a try...

I did check out that link about that rogue wave, WOW! That's above my pay grade! LITERALLY!!!

It however has inspired me to write my next Surfing Experience. Stay tuned!