To Dare The Demon

A Poem Regarding Surfing Big F'n Waves -

The salted sloppy matter comes searing in
Endless ripples surge, a pelican, a fin
Black figures amongst the backdrop
playing within the churn
One within them stands up, another blossom burned.

Taller mountains rise up, glassy as his eyes
The crowd of mongers waits there, beyond the body’s cries
A rattle of stiffened wind
will chill the air so cold
Many of them come in, yet left are the bold.

One more dares the demon, taking it in stride
Once the giant sucks back, it seems suicide
A body then does flail forth
and is smashed into the sea
Another on the head and it seems an eternity.

Sunset stands to end it, as the shadow will prevail
The task becomes too risky, as to what it would entail
While the crowd then finds safe passage
a loner comes to terms
He slides the sapphire ramp and makes the perfect turn.